Day 15. Whistlers Bend Park to Ochoco Divide Campground, Ochoco National Forest
  Miles today = 240
Total miles = 3645
 
     
   
   
     
     
 
 
The foggy view from the Bandon, Oregon docks.
The North Umpqua River by the Whistlers Bend Park. A well known trout stream, or so I've read.
Okay, we've known it for sometime now, well besides the refusal to spell check, I am getting quite irritable. Something about the best-laid plans I guess. Bend, Oregon will forever be in my memory as the abyss of unmet expectations. I surely have my expectations way too high, either that or my faith in consistency is based on an illusion of a pattern that when followed long enough is bound to fail, I guess. First, Safeway of Tillamook, then Bend from the Starbucks on the southern end of town to the Target, egads, yes Target too, on the north end of Bend.
But anyway, we'll try to get back to the trip and see if my irritability will go by the wayside in Mitchell tomorrow morning. It’s not as if the whole of Orygun is out to get me. There were some bright spots so we'll start there.
It got cold last night so I was a bit chilly and I see by the thermometer this evening that as soon as the sun went down it dropped 15 degrees. So the morning commute of the river/stream, which was so beautiful with the sun coming through the trees (for once I was up at the crack of dawn) that there were many photo opportunities, especially since it is a renown trout stream with sections for artificial lures only. But it was cold. So cold that when I finally go to a gas station at the way top which topped out at about 5,000 feet or so in elevation, I had to actually look at my hand to make sure it was around the brake lever. The elevation change coupled with the wind made the ride to Crater Lake, around it and back down out of the mountains, rather chilly.
Crater Lake was a shining spot in my day for today was a free day. Whether for all national parks or just Crater Lake I didn't quite catch but it saved me the $10 entrance fee. Which is a big deal when I knew I was going to be in and out, and I was in around 2 hours. So I was happy.
Now the road around the crater was something else. Apparently, the National Park System does not believe in guardrails. Plus, the signs stating “Falls will cause injury and even death” really makes one think before going over the speed limit. Okay, maybe every time rounding a curve and coming to a rail-less section, those drops off the sides were steep and no easy way back up. At least here most of the time you have a chance to grab a hold of a pine or boulder before pitching over the edge into thin air unlike on the Going-to-the-Sun road.
Five miles wide that crater is and water depth of over 1,900 feet deep. It was one of the deepest blue lakes I've ever seen, and seeing it wasn't that easy with the hazy smoggy air. I looked for the road to the boat landing where they give boat tours but I never found one. That road, if there is one, must be quite a trip down. I never saw an area that wasn't steep down to the lake.
After Crater it was on to Bend to get all cranky and miserable, like the smell of deer carcasses left to rot by the side of the road in my head, then on to whatever city was north of there for me to get lost and lose 45 minutes because of a detour and one-way streets—almost as bad as trying to get out of the mall that the Target was in. Yes the only Target that didn’t carry any of the foodstuffs I came to expect. Okay, okay, I'll try to stay on task but that mall was unbelievable to get out of. The lady with the stroller…I waited for her once to cross at the corner but not a second time. No way Jose. I made sure she and whatever she had in the stroller be a feared for their lives. She was going to be the object of my scorn, even if she didn’t know it.
As it is has been with most of my days, the campground I was shooting for was further away than I thought it was. So I was thinking of boondocking, and seriously which is unlike me because I’m sure the anxiety of being told to move a long little doggie or hearing hunters gun shots in the woods would have kept me up all night, until I saw the sign for this campground. There are probably 30 sites, with maybe 4 or 5 being used. The biffys are spiffy. I had to inspect one because of its construction and cleanliness. I've got water right over there, the wastewater dump is over there and the only sounds are infrequent cars on the highway.
The poor squirrel that ran to get under the table while I was eating was very upset with me and my scaring him out of his wits and up into the nearest tree. He, this little guy, barked loudly at me the whole time he sat there looking at me. After a few minutes of his sitting there he went up the tree, over to the next one to come down and jogged off as squirrels now can, continuing to bark as he went.
Other highlights of the day include finding out that my power inverter actually works and does recharge my laptop. Thanks to the Starbucks of Bend, Oregon to shut off the power to their outlets AND charge for Internet for me to finally put my set-up to use. I never really had time to test it before I set out and then I didn't want to do it someplace
that if I had to bail I wasn't in the middle of nowhere, so what better place to try it than riding out of Bend? If it wasn’t going to work that would have been the place.
Only in the last year have I stopped my boycott of Starbucks, I figured no use being the last one so I finally gave in. To be honest I've never had what I’d call a good cup of coffee there. They have nothing on Green Mountain Coffee. Sure in Anacortes they gave me free Internet, the guy sitting in front of me got the only outlet but why would I then think that Bend's would offer either? Do you think I wanted that coffee on its own merit and then because I was hanging out over 1500 miles from home and 3,000 miles away from my dog vacationing in Vermont, I would just happen to boot-up my computer and check my Hotmail? Oh contraire my brother. I guess that means we will be looking for public libraries along the way again. The employee that had to take her break sitting right behind me and snap her gum constantly while talking to her fellow baristas over the din certainly added to my beginning dismay. People, we are adults not cows, we have employer/employee rules and no one in the food industry, of which I am sure Starbucks is included, chews gum. Have we not learned from fingers separated abruptly from their owners in our chili?
Part of the reason for stopping was to check my email. So when I got to pay to read emails that have no content. If I wanted pointless communication and get a cell phone and listen to some Tiffany or Paris decide whether the jeans they are trying on really fit and what my thoughts are on them. Damn it, I'm on vacation and I don't have to check my email. It’s a courtesy so you can all be jealous that I'm crabby as hell however many states away.
Dear Diary, Today I was rude when given a platform on to which place my thoughts. Do you think they will ever find it in their hearts to forgive me?
The main reason for stopping was to find a BMW dealer so I can figure out how to get my rear tire replaced before I am riding on the rim. I have finally decided, on a Saturday afternoon when everything is closed, to decide where I need to go to get a tire. Now most places won't stock many tires so that means some logistics are in order. I figure my best bet for finding a tire my size will be a BMW dealer and the most convenient one is in Boise. I'll get there Monday morning and if they have no tire, well, then I am SOL. My other options are to lose a day by going to either Park Falls, way north where I was earlier this week, or to Missoula which is over the mountains the hard way, or see about Sturgis which is farther away, maybe 2-3 days and close to a thousand miles which puts that tire on its death bed. Not the confidence builder I need while hitting the Rockies again. Though I suppose I could always wait a couple days and go across the mountains with the warmer weather but that would be an extra two days, which, I guess, is possible, but I'd rather do that in Yellowstone, which is neither near Boise, Missoula or Sturgis. But hey, at least I know my power inverter works.
Anyway, not much of an exciting ride today, some lava flows before Bend and some buttes about a half hour before here, otherwise, it’s just the high desert and pine obscuring the distant scenery. There is a lot of visible evidence of ancient volcanic action here in Oregon. Much more than I've seen anywhere else.
So unless things pick up tomorrow, Oregon will not go down meeting my expectations. Perhaps I've seen too much, or the constant changing of elevation has my brain in a tizzy or probably because I've been taking a multivitamin and we all know what that does to a guy’s brain.
With that I am going to crawl into my long johns, read some, and then toss and turn to stiffen and ache my lower back.
 
 
It's a long way down in a hurry. View from Skell Head overlook.
Overlook on the east side of Crater Lake.
 
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